Tag: natural

Higher Grounds Trading Company // Peru Norandino Natural

Higher Grounds Trading Company // Peru Norandino Natural

Peru Norandino Cooperative is an association of small-scale coffee producers in northern Peru. The 90 grassroots organizations with more than 6,600 producers, located on the western slopes of the Andes Mountains in Piura. Cooperativa Norandino brings together three important coffee farmer groups with a long […]

SUNERGOS COFFEE // PANAMA HARTMANN ESTATE

SUNERGOS COFFEE // PANAMA HARTMANN ESTATE

Panama Hartmann Estate—located in the Chiriqui highlands of the Boquete region—is owned by the Hartmann family. Mr. Alois St. Hartmann (Luis Hartmann) was born in Czechoslovakia in 1891 which he abandoned being a young boy when the First World War began. Thanks to his mother he could […]

Barrington Coffee Company // Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma

Barrington Coffee Company // Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma

Lemma Edeto recovered his farm from the Derg regime in the 1970ss. His sons, Haile and Nigusse, now run the farm and all of the coffee processing. They hold full control over every aspect from its picking to drying to milling. Their farm is the highest altitude farm in the Limu region and is covered in old growth shade trees and natural springs. In 2014 Nigusse and Haile won the prestigious African Taste of Harvest Competition awarded by the African Fine Coffee Association.

This is the first lot which Coffee Shrub secured through the Ethiopia Direct Specialty Trade (DST) Auction. DST is a way for smaller lots of high quality to bypass the Coffee Exchange (ECX) where all lots are made anonymous. With the DST we know where the coffee came from and who grew it. Given the importance of direct trade between coffee buyer and the grower, and the general trend of quality-conscious roasters wanting a first-person relationship with their coffee sources, the ECX seems like a step backward, toward coffee as mass commodity.

But in providing the DST bypass, as well as new mechanisms in the coming years for small buyers to deal directly with growers, coops and private groups, they have shown sensitivity to the needs of importers and roasters.*

Welcome to my Table, here in the corner of this cafe. Today we’re sipping the Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma, from Barrington Coffee Company in Lee, Massachusetts, courtesy of Craft Coffee. Feel free to pull up a chair.

THEDETAILS:

region: Mitto Gunim, Limmu Kossa, Ethiopia
farm: Edeto farm
producer: Nigusse and Haile Lemma Edeto
association: DST (ECX)
elevation: 1850 – 2000 meters above sea level
cultivars: Ethiopia Heirloom
process: natural
certifications: standard

CUPPINGNOTES:

The aroma of the Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma is wonderfully sweet and fragrant, featuring stone fruits, berries, and floral scents. It’s not at all the big berry bomb that you’d expect it to be, though, being a natural Yirg and all… If I had been cupping this one blind, I would have assumed it was a washed Ethiopia – it’s much too subtle to be a natural.

Taking my first few sips of the cup immediately post-brew, I can’t get over how unlike most natural Yirgs this coffee is. It’s on the lighter side of a medium-bodied coffee and it features a vibrant, juicy mouthfeel. That’s not so unique in itself, but this coffee has a stunning clarity, its profile is so clean, and its flavors are so elegant and unlike anything I’ve tasted in natural Yirgs in the past; the absence of a “berry bomb” and fermentation are particularly pleasing to the taste buds. It has the light sugary sweetness of raw cookie dough and bittersweet chocolate chips, the juiciness, of stone fruits and red berries, and the fragrance of hibiscus.

As the cup cools off – also unlike most natural Yirgs – its profile doesn’t completely collapse in the back half. Most naturals (at least most of the ones I’ve had) throw everything they have at your palate immediately post-brew and taste diluted and weak at room temperature. This Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma, on the other hand, has a lot of depth and longevity. The juiciness and liveliness of these fruit flavors really intensify the more the cup cools, giving some clarity to what were generic tasting terms before: apricot, peach, caramelized plum, cranberry, strawberry, nectarine, and pear, with a brilliant, effervescent malic acidity that gushes over the palate and leaves behind a clean, sparkling finish.

Medium body; juicy mouthfeel; malic acidity; clean finish.

FINALTHOUGHTS:

I teased this review on Twitter last week, saying:

I know, I know, I know… You’re all tired of hearing about my general – not necessarily disdain, but – lack of enthusiasm for naturally processed Yirgacheffes. It’s well-documented on this platform. When I pulled this bag out of the latest Craft Coffee box and saw that it was a natural, I must admit – I rolled my eyes and audibly groaned. But Barrington Coffee really blew me away with this, their Ethiopia Nigussie Lemma.

This coffee is absolutely brimming with brilliant and elegant flavors, and it features a stunning clarity and depth not often found in natural Yirgs. Truly, this Nigussie Lemma is a stunning and special coffee that shouldn’t be missed.

*content courtesy of Coffee Shrub

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Brio Coffeeworks // Ethiopia Sidama Ardi

Brio Coffeeworks // Ethiopia Sidama Ardi

In October 2009, Samuel Demisse read about the discovery of a 4.4 million year old human fossil found in Ethiopia. He was very fascinated by the news and decided to brand the Guji coffee he was cupping at the time under the name of “Ardi” […]

OQ Coffee Company // Rum Barrel Ethiopia Gelana Abaya

OQ Coffee Company // Rum Barrel Ethiopia Gelana Abaya

Since 2008, much (if not most) of Ethiopia’s coffee goes anonymously through the privately owned, government-warehoused Ethiopia Commodity Exchange (ECX). Aside from cooperatives and large estates, coffees are sold through the ECX to exporters and in the processes rebranded by region. Or…more or less by region. This […]