Running a functioning co-op is never easy, as a lot of us well-meaning folks can attest. The Gihombo Washing Station fell on hard times recently, and was actually shuttered for the 2012 season. The Abaryoshyakawa co-op, which built the station in 2005 with help from USAID, […]
Tag: FourBarrel Coffee
Once again this year, we’re rotating through a selection of lots showcasing our favorite coffees from the various micro-regions of Caranavi. By keeping tiny lots separate, we hope to encourage folks to enjoy the subtle contrasts expressed among different farms, and accentuate our commitment to […]
Oswaldo Perez y Perez was born in Agua Dulce in 1917. At the age of 16 his father passed away and he had to step up and with his brothers continue to cultivate sugarcane and panela. In 1940 they founded “Flor del Café” and began growing coffee (typica) in an area of approximately 5.6 hectares. In 1982 Oswaldo Perez y Perez passed away and his tree sons, Mario Alfonso, Max Joel, and Oswaldo Perez Ramirez, took management of the farm. They continued growing coffee with new and better techniques that resulted in higher yields, as well as experimenting with new varieties (Catimor, Catuai, and Pacamara).
In 1992 Oswaldo Perez Ramirez purchased the farm from his brothers and the neighboring farm to establish Finca Flor del Café, with an area of 105 hectares of coffee and 35 hectares of untouched tropical rainforest. The Farm has its own wet and dry mills, housing for 150 permanent residents, and the “Casa Patronal” Mr. Oswaldo’s house.
Call it what you like—“Flower Farm Coffee,” “Flower of the Coffee,” or “Floor duh café.” Just remember that the secret to this place is the water.
In fact, Flor de Café sits inside a village the locals call “Agua Dulce.” The water around here is indeed slightly sweet. That makes sense, because since at least 1690, this land has been devoted to the cultivation of sugarcane and panela.
Welcome to my Table, here in the corner of this cafe. Today we’re sipping the Guatemala Flor del Cafe, from FourBarrel Coffee in San Francisco, California, courtesy of Craft Coffee. Feel free to pull up a chair.
region: Cuilco, Huehuetenango, Guatemala
farm/factory: La Frontera – Flor del Cafe
producer: Perez Ramirez, Adony Osbaldo
elevation: 1500 – 1550 meters above sea level
process: fully washed, patio dried
Flor del Cafe is a fitting name for this coffee, just judging its aroma, with its incredible scents of rose hip, meadow flowers, cherry blossom, berries, and honeysuckle.
My first few sips of the coffee are like a grocery store of flavors on the palate; well—the fruit stand, baking aisle, and flower section anyway. Up front there are a lot of the floral aromatics that were present in the aroma showing up, then fluttering down the sides of the tongue and brushing the roof of the mouth; there’s also a creamy bed of honey, salted caramel, and brown sugar that completely envelops the palate.
As it cools, the coffee gets considerably livened, bright, and so very, very juicy. Raspberry, elderberry, red currant, raisin, apple, pomegranate, cherry, and a sweet, but sharp, clementine acidity all come gushing over the tongue in a volcano-like explosion of flavor, leaving hints of toffee and pecan in the finish.
Full body; juicy mouthfeel; citrus acidity; clean finish.
THE BOTTOM LINE:
While 2013 may have been the year of the stellar Ethiopian coffee, but it certainly wasn’t kind to Guatemala. Guatemala, which has historically been one of my favorite regions, just didn’t have any output that impressed me—which was very disappointing for me.
However, the Guatemala Flor del Cafe, from FourBarrel Coffee, is a much-welcomed return to form for the region.
The Flor de Cafe is an incredibly flavorful and tasty cup of coffee—juicy and dynamic, with incredible fruits and flowers that completely fill the mouth with its full body and supple, buoyant mouthfeel.
Did you like this? Comments, questions, and suggestions are always welcome here at the Table! Pull up a chair and speak your mind by entering a comment below. Also remember to like us on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter!
On a clear morning, you can stand on the canyon edge of Marco Anonio Romero’s coffee farm in Hulia, Colombia and through your binoculars glimpse something on the opposite canyon edge—Antonio Zuniga’s farm. Zuniga and Romero’s shared commitment to great coffee has bridged this craggy […]